The City of Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Spaces
Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel train pulls into a spray-painted stop. Close by, a police siren pierces the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers rush by collapsing, ivy-draped garden fences as storm clouds form.
This is maybe the last place you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with round mauve berries on a rambling garden plot sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of the city town centre.
"I've noticed people concealing heroin or other items in those bushes," says Bayliss-Smith. "But you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your vines."
The cameraman, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He has pulled together a loose collective of growers who make wine from several hidden urban vineyards nestled in back gardens and allotments across Bristol. It is sufficiently underground to possess an official name yet, but the collective's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Vineyards Across the Globe
So far, the grower's allotment is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which features more famous urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred plants on the hillsides of the French capital's historic artistic district neighbourhood and over three thousand vines overlooking and inside Turin. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing countries, but has identified them all over the world, including cities in East Asia, South Asia and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards help cities remain greener and more diverse. These spaces protect land from development by creating long-term, productive agricultural units within cities," says the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those produced in cities are a result of the soils the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the weather and the people who care for the fruit. "Each vintage represents the beauty, community, environment and history of a city," adds the president.
Mystery Eastern European Variety
Back in Bristol, the grower is in a urgent timeline to harvest the vines he cultivated from a plant left in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the precipitation arrives, then the birds may seize their chance to feast again. "This is the mystery Polish grape," he says, as he cleans bruised and mouldy grapes from the shimmering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they are certainly hardy. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and additional renowned French grapes – you need not treat them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Activities Throughout the City
The other members of the group are also taking advantage of bright periods between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of Bristol's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with casks of vintage from France and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her dark berries from about fifty vines. "I adore the aroma of the grapevines. It is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a container of fruit slung over her arm. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the car windows on holiday."
The humanitarian worker, 52, who has devoted more than 20 years working for charitable groups in conflict zones, inadvertently took over the grape garden when she returned to the UK from Kenya with her household in recent years. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the grapevines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from the soil."
Sloping Vineyards and Natural Winemaking
Nearby, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated more than one hundred fifty vines situated on terraces in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the tangled vineyard. "They can't believe they are viewing grapevine lines in a city street."
Currently, Scofield, 60, is picking clusters of deep violet Rondo grapes from rows of vines arranged along the hillside with the help of her daughter, Luca. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has worked on Netflix's nature programming and television network's gardening shows, was motivated to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can produce interesting, enjoyable natural wine, which can sell for more than ÂŁ7 a serving in the growing number of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention vintages. "It is deeply rewarding that you can truly create good, natural wine," she says. "It's very on trend, but really it's reviving an old way of producing wine."
"During foot-stomping the fruit, the various natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces and enter the liquid," says Scofield, ankle deep in a container of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how wines were made traditionally, but industrial wineries add preservatives to eliminate the natural cultures and subsequently incorporate a lab-grown yeast."
Challenging Conditions and Inventive Solutions
In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired his neighbor to establish her grapevines, has assembled his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who worked at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to Europe. But it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"
The temperamental local weather is not the sole problem encountered by grape cultivators. The gardener has had to install a fence on